第二个十分钟
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冬笋藏在土层的下面
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从竹林表面上看什么也没有
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老包只需要看一下竹梢的颜色
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就能知道笋的准确位置
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在这一片廖无生机的土层之下
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正有冬笋萌发
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冬笋时令性极强又难以保存
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一颗冬笋去掉笋衣之后
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可食用的部分所剩无几
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中国厨师爱它
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也是因为笋的质地单纯
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极易吸收搭配食物的滋味
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尤其是与肥腻的脂肪可以形成美妙的平衡
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浙江的老包找笋
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先找到四年生的竹子
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顺着竹鞭挖
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找到笋之后轻刨轻取不伤根
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笋取出来要盖好土
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就地利用自然可以保鲜两周以上
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从中国东部的浙江
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一路向西南1500公里
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就走进柳州盛夏的竹林
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阿亮是广西人
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他的竹林里生长的是大头甜笋
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6月中旬左右在9月这个时间是采笋的季节
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最细腻的最嫩的竹笋
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通常而言竹笋破土而出见风则硬
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如果不及时采挖就会苦涩变老
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阿亮家的笋属于夏天生的鞭笋
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口感远不如冬笋鲜嫩
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但这种笋 正是用来制作柳州酸笋的原料
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这个是祖传的绝招来秘造这个酸笋
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我是大长孙
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他那个绝招全部遗传给我
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黄豆酸笋小黄鱼
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地道的广西风味菜
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将长不大的小黄鱼事先炸透
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与黄豆酸笋同炒
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这是一道非常开胃的下饭菜
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在柳州当地
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有一种叫螺丝粉的小吃中
在柳州当地
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有一种叫螺丝粉的小吃中
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酸笋是最重要的辅料
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阿亮家的大头甜笋砍下来已经快两个小时了
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这时候笋达到呼吸作用的高峰
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4个小时后
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这两筐大头甜笋都会软化腐烂
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阿亮全家手下的速度都加快了
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阿亮每天睡觉前
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要查看自家的酸笋坛子
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他透过光
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看一下酸笋的成色
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儿子告诉他明天有人要来买酸笋
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但是这些笋至少要三天才能出缸
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他打算推掉客人的订单
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老包正在用冬笋制作一道家常笋汤
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咸猪肉冬笋各放一半
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在柴锅中煸炒
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加高汤慢炖
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咸肉的腌味和冬笋的鲜味相互交融
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在这道被称为腌笃鲜的江浙菜中
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主角本来应该是春笋
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但是老包却使用价格高出20倍的遂昌冬笋
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因为在老包的眼里
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这些不过是自家毛竹林里的一个小菜而已
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再过一个节气
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春笋即将取代冬笋
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继续成就精彩的腌笃鲜
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其实
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除了新鲜食材
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有时成就美食的调味料
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也同样来自于自然
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在云南北部的诺登山区
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醒目的红色砂岩中间
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散布着不少的天然盐井
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这些盐成就了山里人的特殊美味
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诺登盐做的血肠腊制时间不长
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一周后就可以享用
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云南人老黄和他的儿子数江
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正在小溪边搭建一个土灶
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这个土灶
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每年冬天的工作就是熬盐
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水是卤水
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熬盐的原料
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这口盐井已经在诺登村里存在了上千年
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生产食盐
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为的是制作诺登当地独特的美味
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这个太漂亮了
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经验让老黄马上认出一条成熟的诺登火腿
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火腿三年前上好了盐
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已经在这里彻底风干了
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三年的时间 火腿上的脂肪已经氧化成特殊的美味
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火腿要用刀解开
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每个部分都有特殊的吃法
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接近中间骨头的肉是最好的
230
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三年以上的诺登火腿可以生吃
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莴笋炒火腿
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选肥瘦均匀的火腿
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和新鲜的莴笋同炒
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放入大蒜调味
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荤素搭配
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是诺登当地的家常菜
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中午气温升高
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盐井旁的土层里析出的盐分增多
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吸引着附近的牲口
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树江的盐已经熬了4个多小时
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结晶渐渐形成
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诺登盐中含钾利于健康
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而且口味清淡
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是制作火腿最好的选择
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过了模子的盐重量被固定了下来
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这样精准的计量方式说明
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盐曾经是诺登最重要的商品
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云龙县的冬季市场
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老黄和儿子树江赶到集市上挑选买火腿的猪肉
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高原上的猪不是一般的大陆货
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顶级的诺登火腿可以长出完美的油花
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制作火腿炒饭
253
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热热的米饭混上肉丁
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用手趁热团在一起
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使得米香肉香混合起来
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趁热吃
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味道最好
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每年冬至到大寒是老黄父子制作火腿的最佳时间
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诺登的海拔1800米左右
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位置恰好在河谷中江水转弯的地方
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这种温润的气候
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最适合火腿的深度发酵
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腌制火腿的时间很长并不是一天两天
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它一个多月的腌
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还吊
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火腿的腌制
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在老屋的原则里进行
268
00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:23,890
山区的气候总是变化无常
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等到天晴气温低就是最佳的时机
270
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树江已经做了十年的火腿
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但是手艺远不如父亲
272
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对就这么腌
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多擦实实地擦
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多擦一些
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他教我怎么做之后还是得靠悟性
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因为它这个手的按摩还有挤血还有撒盐还有盐要上多少还是得靠悟性
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诺登火腿的腌制过程很简单
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自制的诺盐均匀的覆盖在火腿上
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